‘Voyage à travers le Temps’, the history of Watchmaking

On December 19th 2024, Artcurial’s Watches department will invite collectors and watch enthusiasts on a Voyage à travers le Temps, presenting an auction of over forty vintage watches from a private European collection.

Enameled watches, gold timepieces, simple or complex, with unique designs… this collection traces the history of watchmaking from its beginnings in the 17th century to the 20th century. From leading watchmaking nations to the great empires of the East and Far East, these watches are far more than functional objects; they embody craftsmanship, values, and cultural traditions. 

Breguet Montre à Tact, No. 713

Breguet
Tact Watch, No. 713
Gold and royal blue translucent enamel medallion-style tact watch with diamonds, accompanied by a double chain and key.
Sold on October 1st 1800, to Mr. Busty
Estimate: €40,000 – €60,000 

The ‘tact watch’ was invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in the late 1790s, a time when it was considered improper to check the time in public. The ingenious ‘tact’ mechanism allowed discreet time-telling through touch alone. This watch belongs to the category of ‘small’ tact watches by Breguet, the most sought-after type.

Sold on October 1st 1800, to Mr. Busty, it is one of the earliest models of tact watches.

A rare example of a pre-balance spring watch—one of the earliest locally-made watches for the Ottoman Sultan’s court in Constantinople—will also be auctioned. This exceptional oval piece features a sumptuous niello and damascened decoration. While made in a Western style, it is of local manufacture. During the Ottoman period, the Galata district in Constantinople was renowned for housing numerous artisans and watchmakers.

The great similarity between this watch and a wall clock signed by Bulugat, in the collections of the Toptapi Palace Museum in Istanbul, indicates that they were made by the same hand.

AMELI SAHIBI BULUGAT  Galata, Constantinople  Milieu XVIIe siècle  Montre ovale à une seule aiguille en argent niellée et damasquinée, sertie de perles, pré balancier spiral, fabriquée pour le marché de l’Empire Ottoman   Estimation : 40 000 - 60 000€

Ameli Sahibi Bulugat
Galata, Constantinople, Mid 17th century
Single-hand oval watch in niello and damascened silver, set with pearls, with spiral balance, made for the Ottoman Empire market 
Estimate: €40,000 - €60,000 

James Cox, London « Le vase de fleurs », milieu XVIIIe siècle

James Cox, London
“Le vase de fleurs”, Mid 18th century
Polissonne watch in gold and painted enamel with three concealed erotic scenes made for the Chinese market
 
Estimate: €40,000 - €60,000 

James Cox (1723–1800), a renowned British watchmaker of the 18th century, was famous for his erotic ‘secret watches’. These creations, featuring enamel work of exceptional craftsmanship, were particularly prized in Europe and Asia. Combining mechanical ingenuity with artistry, these secret clocks reflect an era's fascination for objects that held surprises and hidden functions.

Today, rare examples of enamelled watches by James Cox or his contemporaries are held in the prestigious collections of the British Museum and the Musée de l'Horlogerie in Geneva.

Information

Auction
Voyage à travers le temps
Thursday December 19th 2024, 2pm

Exhibition
Friday December 13th: 11 AM - 6 PM
Saturday December 14th: 11 AM - 6 PM
Sunday December 15th: 2 PM - 6 PM
Monday December 16th: 11 AM - 6 PM
Tuesday December 17th & Wednesday, December 18th: By appointment

Contact 
Marie Sanna-Legrand 
+33 1 42 99 16 53